About Us

New England Brownstone is a small operation that has been in business since 2006 and was started by Russell Greene after the demand for his stonework was realized. And that was almost by accident. While helping with a cross promotional campaign for another product that Mr. Greene was involved in called the MOUSEPAW , Russell decided to sell some Cut Stone Strips that he was using for an abutment he had been building. The Strips were an instant success and it wasn’t long before he was getting requests for other items thus more products were added to the eBay listings under NEBS. As more examples of castings became available, so did the demand.

New England Brownstone strives to provide the best accurately modeled dressed and semi dressed stone replicas for the Model Railroading community. We believe we have duplicated to scale the prototype stonework to a degree that far exceeds any that was commercially available up to this time. We will continue to develop new items to keep model railroaders happy for years to come and welcome any and all input from our customers.

Nebrownstone uses high quality vacuum mixing equipment to ensure that our castings are near bubble free. This may not have much of a bearing if one uses the old “Three Foot Rule” , but since the advent of the Digital camera and the ability to zoom in with the roll of the mouse wheel, once obscure details begin show up quite un-expectantly. This can mean the make or break of a quality close-up shot of that prize loco stopping at the station. Especially if there are scale bowling ball sized holes in the retaining wall or bridge abutment that happens to be in the background.

We at NEBS want to make sure that this will never happen to you our customer and we want you to be assured that you will receive the best quality model stonework available. We know you will be pleased with the crisp, accurate and bubble free detail that is present in all of our Hydrocal castings.

14 thoughts on “About Us

  1. When I saw you at one the Expo’s you had some demo sections of your walls that were about 2″x2″ I think that was used in hands on clinics. I want to teach a clinic for Youth in Model Railroading. Do you still make these? And how much would they cost to buy for HO Brick and Dry Stacked Stone? Thanks.

    1. Hi Jerry, I can make some up. Shoot me an email at: info@nebrownstone . com

  2. Hi Russ. I’ve used your high bridge abutments (3″) in the past, but I no longer see them on your site. Have they been discontinued? Also, I’m about to install the 3″ high stone culvert, but I’m tempted to save the back half for use elsewhere if these are no longer available. Let me know. Thanks!

    Bob

    1. HI Bob, are you talking about the Central Vermont abutments? http://www.nebrownstone.com/blog/product/central-vermont-rr-abutments/
      I do have another one that is about ready. It’s a single track rampart type/style with no wing walls. I’ll see if I can find a picture of it. Thanks, Russ

      1. Here’s a picture of the pattern in its early life. The extra pieces extending out the back at the bottom were temporary and are no longer there. I don’t have the exact dimensions, but it is built for a Micro-engineering 50ft deck girder bridge. Roughly about 1″ from the ledge to the top. It’s about 3″ tall total. Russ
        http://www.nebrownstone.com/blog/gallery/abutments/

  3. What is the difference between the “small” and “half-height” dry stacked walls? Each is 2″x10″ and $10.

    1. Hi Jack, the small walls are of smaller stones and are actually 2 smaller walls that are 2×5″. The large 1/2 height walls are made from larger stones.

  4. I am writing a book on Simulation Based Engineering in Fluid Flow Design under publication with Springer and I am using the figure http://www.nebrownstone.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/DSC_0019-1024×576.jpg
    Please give me your approval for this.

    Thanks
    JS

    1. Hi JS, sorry to get back so late with an answer. Feel free to use any of the pictures on my site. Just put a little quote as to where you found it. Russ

  5. Greetings, I have finally got around to using the O-scale bricks I purchased some time ago.
    They are really good looking and perfect for what I was using them for. I put them on one side of a 4 stall engine house used the bricks put back to back for interior and exterior walls. I am really happy with the way they look.
    Thank for making an excellent product.

    Here is a link to where I used them, on one side of the engine house.

    http://minietonrailroad.org/html/enginehouse.html

    1. Hi Wayne, that is a beautiful roundhouse and the brick walls look marvelous, if I must say so myself. 🙂 Do you mind if I use some of the pictures for my site? Russ

      1. Please do. The latest bricks I ordered will be another machine shop off a new/old single engine house.
        Thanks

  6. Just received a couple of your castings. I ordered the HO Scale brick and the small dry stacked stone wall. The engraving is near perfect and castings free of any bubbles. I love how some of the dry stack stones show drill marks, simulating the drills used to free the stone from a larger formation. Question I have is how best to cut these into strips and minimizing any cracking. My guess is a razor saw and being careful.

    1. Hi Rommel,

      The plaster is Hydrocal which is harder than plaster of Paris, but is really not all that hard and is quite easy to cut with ordinary wood cutting tools.

      The best tool in my mind for cutting plaster is a band saw, but not everyone has one. What ever you do, don’t use a reciprocating scroll saw. Even with hold down bars the work piece can get hung up and lifted a tiny bit and then gets slammed down onto the saw table, which can and usually breaks the piece. Just a fair warning about those types of saws. Good for wood, but not plaster.

      A coping saw works well for cutting when having to cut through and make odd shaped cuts. A razor saw as well as a hacksaw blade can be used for straight cuts. With the latter two, you don’t have to cut all the way through. If you cut about 3/4 of the way through you can snap it off like styrene. You could score/cut less, but the chance of the fracture walking the wrong way is increased, when snapping.

      One other tools for cutting are Dremel type of grinders. I use a dental lab handpiece, which is essentially a glorified Dremel tool that dental lab technicians use when make teeth. They are available on Ebay from China. You can use a flex shaft die grinder, but are a bit awkward for this type of work.

      If you load a straight carbide bit about 2mm (3/32) diameter and ran it along a straight edge you can cut through the plaster quickly in a few passes. The only problem with grinding is the dust. Plaster makes super fine dust that you don’t want to breath, so wear a mask.

      I hope that answered your question. I guess I’m going to have to put a “Working with New England Brownstone castings” video up, one of these days.

      Thanks for the Kudos and questions. Russ

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